Experience Oman Week 2: From historic mud villages to the "Grand Canyon of Arabia"
- Kiki
- Mar 22
- 4 min read
Our second week in Oman took us to high altitudes – almost 3,000 meters. It was a week full of contrasts: from the silence of deserted mountain villages to the vibrant history of Nizwa and the breathtaking drops of Jebel Shams.
Nizwa & Birkat Al Mouz: Where Time Stood Still
Our adventure started at the Stay Inn (often listed as The Inn Nizwa) near Nizwa. A real gem: the chalets are brand new, modernly equipped with a whirlpool and a great terrace – the perfect retreat away from the hustle and bustle.
In Nizwa itself, we experienced Omani hospitality at its finest. Although we didn't have the parking app, a local shopkeeper didn't hesitate and simply paid the parking fee for us. Even though Nizwa Fort was already closed to visitors (note: often only open until 11:00 am on Fridays!), a stroll through the old town and the labyrinthine souks was definitely worthwhile.
Old City of Nizwa Kerstin at the village square of Nizwa The streets of Nizwa Nizwa and its front doors Rainer in the dishdasha in the ruined part of Nizwa old narrow streets in Nizwa
A real insider tip for photography enthusiasts is the "Lost Place" Birkat Al Mouz . The old mud village is picturesquely situated at the foot of the mountains and, with its ruins and the old falaj irrigation system, looks like a film set.
Falaj irrigation system in Birkat Al Mouz very narrow alleys and stairs in Birkat Al Mouz Ruins in Birkat Al Mouz Falaj irrigation system in Birkat Al Mouz very narrow alleyways in the ghost town of Birkat Al Mouz Kerstin in the dilapidated Birkat Al Mouz
The Gate to Jebel Shams: Al Hamra & Misfat Al Abriyeen
Before heading into the high Alps of Oman, we visited Al Hamra and its "Living Museum".
Bait Al Safah is a must-see: Here you can see up close how bread is traditionally baked, date syrup is pressed and perfume is made.
Preparation of thin bread at the Living Museum Bait Al Safah Grinding flour at the Living Museum Bait Al Safah ground flour in the Living Museum Bait Al Safah Samples are served at the Living Museum Bait Al Safah Homemade makeup at the Living Museum Bait Al Safah Clothing produced in the Living Museum Bait Al Safah
Another stop took us to
Misfat Al Abriyeen . The village clings to the rock face and is famous for its lush palm groves. A stroll through the gardens is wonderfully relaxing and demonstrates how tourism breathes new life into old villages.
Summit bliss and deep gorges
The drive to Jebel Shams , the country's highest mountain, is breathtaking. Our route took us along steep tracks to secluded campsites:
• Wadi Dofia Dam : Our overnight camp on a mountaintop overlooking Al Hamra – campfire and pure solitude.
View over Al Hamra Rainer on the plateau above Al Hamra Sunset over Al Hamra evening campfire Sausages on the campfire grill Goats visit us on the plateau
• Sunrise Resort : Situated at approximately 2,200 meters, it offers fantastic views. Those who don't require 5-star luxury will find warm hospitality and honest, delicious food here.
The highlight: The Balcony Walk (W6)
The "Grand Canyon of Arabia" ( Wadi Nakhr ) is gigantic. The rock walls drop vertically for over 1,000 meters. We hiked the famous
Balcony Walk (W6 Trail) runs right along the edge to the abandoned village of Sab Bani Khamis. Despite the altitude of 2,000 meters, it was sunny and warm enough for T-shirts.
Kerstin on the Balcony Walk in Wadi Nakhr Rainer on the Balcony Walk in Wadi Nakhr Rainer at the edge of the cliff in Wadi Nakhr Wadi Nakhr from above Rainer above the Wadi Nakhr Goat with bird on its head in Wadi Nakhr
Off-road adventure in Wadi Nakhr
Finally, we found our own way through the Hajar Mountains. Away from the tourist trails, we encountered only sheep, goats, and the silence of nature.
The highlight of the trip was the drive into the heart of Wadi Nakhr : we battled our way for 7 kilometers through the riverbed in an off-road vehicle, followed by a challenging hike. The reward? Traditional coffee with dates at a local's place right on the wadi.
Kerstin in a small settlement in Wadi Nakhr View into Wadi Nakhr Kerstin is taking a break in Wadi Nakhr Kerstin is hiking in Wadi Nakhr Rainer is climbing in Wadi Nakhr Kerstin in Wadi Nakhr
Summary of our week:
Oman completely enchanted us with its landscape and the warmth of its people. Anyone seeking solitude and not afraid of steep mountain roads will find their paradise here.
Tips for your trip:
• Nizwa Fort: Be sure to check the opening hours , especially on Fridays (usually only until 11:00 am).
• Equipment: It gets very cold in the mountains at night. Sleeping bags and warm jackets are essential!
• Vehicle: A 4x4 is absolutely necessary for the route to Jebel Shams and especially for the wadis (like Wadi Nakhr).
📍 GPS coordinates for the Jebel Shams region
The Inn Nizwa (Stay Inn)
• Note: The hotel in Nizwa provides a good base for trips into the mountains.
• Birkat Al Mouz (Ruins)
• Tip: The historical ruins and the Falaj irrigation system (UNESCO World Heritage Site) are located directly at the foot of the mountain.
• Bait Al Safah Museum (Al Hamra)
• A living museum in the old city of Al Hamra, showcasing traditional Omani life.
• Wadi Dofia Dam (campsite)
• Often used as a quiet place for stopovers or camping.
• Sunrise Resort Jebel Shams
• One of the most popular accommodations at the top of the plateau, ideal for cool nights.
• Balcony Walk starting point (W6 Hike)
• The starting point for the famous hike along the edge of the "Grand Canyon of Oman".
• Entrance to Wadi Nakhr
• The entrance to the spectacular gorge. Be sure to heed the weather warning (flash floods)!
Tips for navigating in the mountains:
• Use offline maps: Since reception often drops out in the gorges of Wadi Nakhr or at the top of Jebel Shams, download the region in advance from Google Maps or the Maps.me app (very good for hiking trails!).
• Wadi Nakhr Offroad: The drive through the wadi leads directly through the scree slope. Only enter in dry weather – in rainy weather, there is a risk of life-threatening flash floods in wadis.
• Military restricted areas: As you have experienced, the highest points (radar stations) are often restricted areas. Pay attention to the "Military Area – No Entry" signs to avoid making U-turns on narrow roads.
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